Tacos, oysters, craft cocktails, brunch. I feel like the people behind Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar must’ve said “Let’s just take everything that people in Boston lose their minds over, and put them all under one roof.”
If so, it’s a sound strategy. On the two occasions I’ve been to the funky South Boston eatery, there’s been a line out the door.
One of these days, I’ll dive into Loco’s cocktails and talk about their delicious, creative tacos. But today, here’s a look at the brunch program, which brings Latin flair to an array of traditional and original dishes.
Huevos Benedictos packs smoky, savory flavors into a classic brunch staple. Two poached eggs are served on Portuguese sweet bread with tasso ham, chorizo, and pico de gallo, topped with hollandaise sauce. Papas bravas are served on the side, topped with ancho ketchup and mojo sauce.
And what kind of taqueria would Loco be if it didn’t offer breakfast tacos? A pair of spicy tacos are filled with carnitas, scrambled cheesy eggs, smoked tomato salsa, and chile de arbol. (My wife ordered them without the carnitas, which I think was the wrong move.) The fluffy, creamy eggs steal the show here.
Brunch cocktails occupy an odd little corner of the beverage universe. They need to be versatile enough to complement a range of sweet and savory dishes, and they shouldn’t be overly boozy (since, you know…it’s the middle of the day). Loco dips into its extensive tequila selection for many of its brunch drinks, which stand up to the bold, spicy ingredients on the food menu.
The Bloody Maria is a Mexican interpretation of the Bloody Mary. Made with blanco tequila and a house Bloody Mary mix, and rimmed with tajin seasoning (a combo of chile pepper, lime, and salt), it pairs beautifully with the smoky Huevos Benedictos.
The Zen Diego combines tequila, coconut water, and lemonade, with a few jalapeños floating on the surface. It’s a refreshing drink for a sunny day, and the jalapeños contribute more of a peppery flavor than outright heat.
And the most decadent of cocktails comes in the most unassuming of vessels. Served in a metal can, the Brewed Awakening is a rich blend of vanilla vodka, RumChata, Kahlua, and cinnamon-nutmeg cold brew. It’s a smooth and creamy drink that works as well for breakfast as it does for dessert.
Make a reservation. You’ll need it. But even if you end up waiting, it’s not the end of the world. Service was brisk and efficient, and it seems like tables turn over fairly quickly.
Address: 412 W. Broadway, South Boston
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